As I walked home from church with my mother that day the streets seemed
as quiet and safe as her eyes. How suddenly tempting it seemed to me,
this quiet and this safety, compared to the place where I was going. For
I had decided to run away from my home and my mother that afternoon,
down to the harbor to see the world. What would become of me 'way down
there? What would she do if I never came back? A lump rose in my throat
at the thought of her tears. It was terrible.
"All the same I am going to do it," I kept thinking doggedly. And yet
suddenly, as we reached our front steps, how near I came to telling her.
But no, she would only spoil it all. She wanted me always up in the
garden, she wanted me never to have any thrills.
My mother knew me so well. She had seen that when she read stories of
fairies, witches and goblins out of my books to Sue and me, while Sue,
though two years younger, would sit there like a little dark imp, her
black eyes snapping over the fights, I would creep softly out of the
room, ashamed and shaken, and would wait in the hall outside till the
happy ending was in plain view. So my mother had gradually toned down
all the fights and the killings, the witches and the monsters, and much
to my disappointment had wholly shut out the gory pirates who were for
me the most frightfully fascinating of all. Sometimes I felt vaguely
that for this she had her own reason, too—that my mother hated
everything that had to do with the ocean, especially my father's dock
that made him so gloomy and silent. But of this I could never be quite
sure. I would often watch her intently, with a sud[Pg 11]den sharp anxiety,
for I loved my mother with all my soul and I could not bear to see her
"Never on any account," I heard her say to Belle, "are the children to
go down the street toward the docks."
"Yes, ma'am," said Belle. "I'll see to it."
At once I wanted to go there. The street in front of our house sloped
abruptly down at the next corner two blocks through poorer and smaller
houses to a cobblestone space below, over which trucks clattered,
plainly on their way to the docks. So I could go down and around by that
way. How tempting it all looked down there. Above the roofs of the
houses, the elevated railroad made a sharp bend on its way to the
Bridge, trains roared by, high over all the Great Bridge swept across
the sky. And below all this and more thrilling than all, I caught
glimpses of strange, ragged boys. "Micks," Belle sometimes called them,
and sometimes, "Finian Mickies." Up here I had no playmates.
From now on, our garden lost its charms. Up the narrow courtway which
ran along the side of the house I would slip stealthily to the front
gate and often get a good look down the street before Belle sharply
called me back. The longest looks, I found, were always on Sunday
afternoons, when Belle would sit back there in the garden, close to the
bed of red tulips which encircled a small fountain made of two white
angels. Belle, who was bony, tall and grim, would sit by the little
angels reading her shabby Bible. Her face was wrinkled and almost brown,
her eyes now kind, now gloomy. She had a song she would sing now and
then. "For beneath the Union Jack we will drive the Finians back"—is
all I can remember. She told me of witches in the Scotch hills. At her
touch horrible monsters rose in the most surprising places. In the
bathtub, for example, when I stayed in the bath too long she would jerk
out the stopper, and as from the hole there came a loud gurgle—"It's
the Were-shark," Belle would mutter. And I would leap out trembling.[Pg 12]
This old "Were-shark" had his home in the very middle of the ocean. In
one gulp he could swallow a boy of my size, and this he did three times
each day. The boys were brought to him by the "Condor," a perfectly
hideous bird as large as a cow and as fierce as a tiger. If ever I dared
go down that street and disobey my mother, the Condor would "swoop" down
over the roofs, snatch me up in his long yellow beak with the blood of
the last boy on it, and with thunder and lightning would carry me off
far over the clouds and drop me into the Were-shark's mouth.
Then Belle would sit down to her Bible.
Sunday after Sunday passed, and still in fascinated dread I would steal
quietly out to the gate and watch this street forbidden. Pointing to it
one day, Belle had declared in awful tones, "Broad is the way that
leadeth to destruction." But it was not broad. In that at least she was
all wrong. It was in fact so narrow that a Condor as big as a cow might
easily bump himself when he "swooped." Besides, there were good strong
lamp-posts where a little boy could cling and scream, and almost always
somewhere in sight was a policeman so fat and heavy that even two
Condors could hardly lift him from the ground. This policeman would come
running. My mother had said I must never be scared by policemen, because
they were really good kind men. In fact, she said, it was foolish to be
scared by anything ever. She never knew of Belle's methods with me.
So at last I had decided to risk it, and now the fearful day had come. I
could barely eat my dinner. My courage was fast ebbing away. In the
dining-room the sunlight was for a time wiped out by clouds, and I grew
suddenly happy. It might rain and then I could not go. But it did not
rain nor did anything I hoped for happen to prevent my plan. Belle sat
down by the angels and was soon so deep in her Bible that it was plain I
could easily slip up the path. Sue never looked up from her sand-pile
to[Pg 13] say, "Stop Billy! He's running away from home!" With a gulp I passed
my mother's window. She did not happen to look out. Now I had reached
the very gate. "I can't go! I can't open the gate!" But the old gate
opened with one push. "I can't go! There is no policeman!" But yes,
there he was on my side of the street slowly walking toward me. My heart
thumped, I could hardly breathe. In a moment with a frantic rush I had
reached the nearest lamp-post and was clinging breathless. I could not
scream, I shut my eyes in sickening fear and waited for the rushing of
But there came no Condor swooping.
Another rush—another post—another and another!
"What's the matter with you, little feller?"
I looked up at the big safe policeman and laughed.
"I'm playing a game," I almost shouted, and ran without touching another
post two blocks to the cobblestone space below. I ran blindly around it
several times, I bumped into a man who said, "Heigh there! Look out!"
After that I strutted proudly, then turned and ran back with all my
might up the street, and into our house and up to my room. And there on
my bed to my great surprise I found myself sobbing and sobbing. It was a
long time before I could stop. I had had my first adventure.
I made many Sunday trips after that, and on no one of them was I caught.
For delighted and proud at what I had done I kept asking Belle to talk
of the Condor, gloomily she piled on the terrors, and seeing the awed
look in my eyes (awe at my own courage in defying such a bird), she felt
so sure of my safety that often she would barely look up from her Bible
the whole afternoon. Even on workdays over her sewing she would forget.
And so I went "to destruction."
At first I stayed but a little while and never left the cobblestone
space, only peering up into the steep little streets that led to the
fearsome homes of the "Micks."[Pg 14] But then I made the acquaintance of Sam.
It happened through a small toy boat which I had taken down there with
the purpose of starting it off for "heathen lands." As I headed across
the railroad tracks that led to the docks, suddenly Sam and his gang
appeared from around a freight car. I stood stock-still. They were
certainly "Micks"—ragged and dirty, with holes in their shoes and soot
on their faces. Sam was smoking a cigarette.
"Heigh, fellers," he said, "look at Willy's boat."
I clutched my boat tighter and turned to run. But the next moment Sam
had me by the arm.
"Look here, young feller," he growled. "You've got the wrong man to do
business with this time."
"I don't want to do any business," I gasped.
"Smash him, Sam—smash in his nut for him," piped the smallest Micky
cheerfully. And this Sam promptly proceeded to do. It was a wild and
painful time. But though Sam was two years older, he was barely any
larger than I, and when he and his gang had gone off with my boat, as I
stood there breathing hard, I was filled with a grim satisfaction. For
once when he tried to wrench the boat from me I had hit him with it
right on the face, and I had had a glimpse of a thick red mark across
his cheek. I tasted something new in my mouth and spit it out. It was
blood. I did this several times, slowly and impressively, till it made a
good big spot on the railroad tie at my feet. Then I walked with dignity
back across the tracks and up "the way of destruction" home. I walked
slowly, planning as I went. At the gate I climbed up on it and swung.
Then with a sudden loud cry I fell off and ran back into the garden
crying, "I fell off the gate! I fell on my face!" So my cut and swollen
lip was explained, and my trips were not discovered.
I felt myself growing older fast. For I knew that I could both fight and
tell lies, besides defying the Condor.
In the next years, for weeks at a time my life was centered on Sam and
his gang. How we became friends, how[Pg 15] often we met, by just what means I
evaded my nurse, all these details are vague to me now. I am not even
sure I was never caught. But it seems to me that I was not. For as I
grew to be eight years old, Belle turned her attention more and more to
that impish little sister of mine who was always up to some mischief or
other. There was the corner grocer, too, with whom I pretended to be
staunch friends. "I'm going to see the grocer," I would say, when I
heard Sam's cautious whistle in front of the house—and so presently I
would join the gang. I followed Sam with a doglike devotion, giving up
my weekly twenty-five cents instead of saving it for Christmas, and in
return receiving from him all the world-old wisdom stored in that
bullet-shaped head of his which sat so tight on his round little
And though I did not realize it then, in my tense crowded childhood,
through Sam and his companions I learned something else that was to
stand me in good stead years later on. I learned how to make friends
with "the slums." I discovered that by making friends with "Micks" and
"Dockers" and the like, you find they are no fearful goblins, giants
bursting savagely up among the flowers of your life, but people as human
as yourself, or rather, much more human, because they live so close to
the harbor, close to the deep rough tides of life.
Into these tides I was now drawn down—and it did me some good and a
great deal of harm. For I was too little those days for the harbor.
Sam had the most wonderful life in the world. He could go wherever he
liked and at any hour day or night. Once, he said, when a "feller" was
drowned, he had stayed out on the docks all night. His mother always let
him alone. An enormous woman with heavy eyes, I was in awe of her from
the first. The place that she kept with Sam's father was called "The
Sailor's Harbor." It stood on a corner down by the docks, a long, low
wooden building painted white, with twelve tight-shuttered, mysterious[Pg 16]
windows along the second story, and below them a "Ladies' Entrance." In
front was a small blackboard with words in white which Sam could read.
"Ten Cent Dinners" stood at the top. Below came, "Coffee and rolls."
Next, "Ham and eggs." Then "Bacon and eggs." And then, "To-day"—with a
space underneath where Sam's fat father wrote down every morning still
more delicious eatables. You got whiffs of these things and they made
your mouth water, they made your stomach fairly turn against your
But most of our time we spent on the docks. All were roofed, and
exploring the long dock sheds and climbing down into the dark holds of
the square-rigged ships called "clippers," we found logs of curious
mottled wood, huge baskets of sugar, odorous spices, indigo, camphor,
tea, coffee, jute and endless other things. Sam knew their names and the
names of the wonder-places they came from—Manila, Calcutta, Bombay,
Ceylon. He knew besides such words as "hawser," "bulkhead" and
"ebb-tide." And Sam knew how to swear. He swore with a fascinating ease
such words as made me shiver and stare. And then he would look at me and
"You think I'll go to hell for this, don't you," he asked me once. And
my face grew hot with embarrassment, for I thought that he assuredly
I asked him what were heathen lands, and he said they were countries
where heathen lived. And what were heathen? Cannibals. And what were
"Fellers that eat fellers," he said.
"Alive?" I inquired. He turned to the gang:
"Listen to the kid! He wants to know if they eat 'em alive!" Sam spat
disgustedly. "Naw," he said. "First they roast 'em like any meat. They
roast 'em," he added reflectively, "until their skin gets brown and
bubbles out and busts."
One afternoon a carriage brought three travelers for one of the ships, a
man, his wife and a little girl with[Pg 17] shining yellow pig-tails. "To be
et," Sam whispered as we stood close beside them. And then, pointing to
some of the half-naked brown men that made the crew of the ship near
by—"cannibals," he muttered. For a long time I stared at these eaters,
especially at their lean brown stomachs.
"We're safe enough," Sam told me. "They ain't allowed to come ashore." I
found this very comforting.
But what a frightful fate lay in store for the little girl with
pig-tails. As I watched her I felt worse and worse. Why couldn't
somebody warn her in time? At last I decided to do it myself. Procuring
a scrap of paper I retired behind a pile of crates and wrote in my
large, clumsy hand, "You look out—you are going to be et." Watching my
chance, I slipped this into her satchel and hoped that she would read it
soon. Then I promptly forgot all about her and ran off into a warehouse
where the gang had gone to slide.
These warehouses had cavernous rooms, so dark you could not see to the
ends, and there from between the wooden columns the things from the
ships loomed out of the dark like so many ghosts. There were strange
sweet smells. And from a hole in the ceiling there was a twisting chute
of steel down which you could slide with terrific speed. We used to
slide by the hour.
Outside were freight cars in long lines, some motionless, some suddenly
lurching forward or back, with a grinding and screeching of wheels and a
puffing and coughing from engines ahead. Sam taught me how to climb on
the cars and how to swing off while they were going. He had learned from
watching the brakemen that dangerous backward left-hand swing that lands
you stock-still in your tracks. It is a splendid feeling. Only once
Sam's left hand caught, I heard a low cry, and after I jumped I found
him standing there with a white face. His left hand hung straight down
from the wrist and blood was dripping from it.[Pg 18]
"Shut up, you damn fool!" he said fiercely.
"I wasn't saying nothing," I gasped.
"Yes, you was—you was startin' to cry! Holy Christ!" He sat down
suddenly, then rolled over and lay still. Some one ran for his mother,
and after a time he was carried away. I did not see him again for some
We did things that were bad for a boy of my size, and I saw things that
I shouldn't have seen—a docker crushed upon one of the docks and
brought out on a stretcher dead, a stoker as drunk as though he were
dead being wheeled on a wheelbarrow to a ship by the man called a
"crimp," who sold this drunken body for an advance on its future pay.
Sam told me in detail of these things. There came a strike, and once in
the darkness of a cold November twilight I saw some dockers rush on a
"scab," I heard the dull sickening thumps as they beat him.
And one day Sam took me to the door of his father's saloon and pointed
out a man in there who had an admiring circle around him.
"He's going to jump from the Bridge on a bet," Sam whispered. I saw the
man go. For what seemed to me hours I watched the Great Bridge up there
in the sky, with its crawling processions of trolleys and wagons, its
whole moving armies of little black men. Suddenly one of these tiny
specks shot out and down, I saw it fall below the roofs, I felt Sam's
hand like ice in mine. And this was not good for a boy of ten.
But the sight that ended it all for me was not a man, but a woman. It
happened one chilly March afternoon when I fell from a dock into water
covered with grease and foam, came up spluttering and terrified, was
quickly hauled to the dock by a man and then hustled by Sam and the gang
to his home, to have my clothes dried and so not get caught by my
mother. Scolded by Sam's mother and given something fiery hot to drink,
stripped naked and wrapped in an old flannel nightgown and told to sit
by the stove in the kitchen—I was then left alone with[Pg 19] Sam. And then
Sam with a curious light in his eyes took me to a door which he opened
just a crack. Through the crack he showed me a small back room full of
round iron tables. And at one of these a man, stoker or sailor I don't
know which, his face flushed red under dirt and hair, held in his lap a
big fat girl half dressed, giggling and queer, quite drunk. And then
while Sam whispered on and on about the shuttered rooms upstairs, I felt
a rush of such sickening fear and loathing that I wanted to scream—but
I turned too faint.
I remember awakening on the floor, Sam's mother furiously slapping Sam,
then dressing me quickly, gripping me tight by both my arms and saying,
"You tell a word of this to your pa and we'll come up and kill you!"
That night at home I did not sleep. I lay in my bed and shivered and
burned. My first long exciting adventure was over. Ended were all the
thrills, the wild fun. It was a spree I had had with the harbor, from
the time I was seven until I was ten. It had taken me at seven, a plump
sturdy little boy, and at ten it had left me wiry, thin, with quick,
nervous movements and often dark shadows under my eyes. And it left a
deep scar on my early life. For over all the adventures and over my
whole childhood loomed this last thing I had seen, hideous, disgusting.
For years after that, when I saw or even thought of the harbor, I felt
the taste of foul, greasy water in my mouth and in my soul.
So ended the first lesson.[Pg 20]